::introtext::
1990 Saab 900 SPGcondition: fair
cylinders: 4 cylinders
drive: fwd
fuel: gas
paint color: red
title status: clean
transmission: manual
cylinders: 4 cylinders
drive: fwd
fuel: gas
paint color: red
title status: clean
transmission: manual
2015-11-30 3:58pm
$4500
I'm ready to let go of this rare classic.
This SPG was my daily driver until just a couple weeks ago and it's been an ongoing project of mine for the last 3 yrs. On a recent trip across the Rocky Mountains, I got 34.6 mpg from Grand Junction to Longmont. Now I've run out of time on this project and would like to free the garage space. As much as I believe this car is worth stashing away for the next 5 years, it's time to let someone else take a crack at it.
The transmission was replaced with a good used unit in early 2013 at a cost of $2500, not including the tranny. That's not to say it will last forever... I don't know how many miles were on it when installed. The mechanic gave it a seal of approval and I can say it still gives me no trouble. It doesn't pop out of gear or grind at all.
The interior leather is in pretty good condition. The front seats were refinished a few years ago by the previous owner and are holding up well. The rear seats do have some UV crackling. The center console is removed (I like it better that way). The dash pad has typical cracks, of course. The dash fascia once had an aftermarket wood grain kit on it, which I removed for cleaning. I'm sure I can dig that up for you.
This is a project. The car stopped starting for me the other week and I had it towed home. Right away it seemed it wasn't getting fuel. I've confirmed the fuel pump does work but somewhere in the system, it's not getting turned on. I've replaced the pump relay and I believe the ECM is good. I have a spare distributor to go with the car, just in case it's the Hall sensor. I do not have a spare coil. And no, I haven't checked for spark yet.
Why haven't I checked for spark? The key cylinder fell out several months ago and I'd been starting the car with a screwdriver. After checking the several other systems, I think I can no longer turn on the ignition with my screwdriver (the metal in there is soft and I no longer have enough grip). You'll need to switch out the ignition or convert to push-button start.
Anyway, one of the main symptoms is that the tach needle doesn't jump when cranking the engine. The problem could also be the faulty tachometer, which may or may not need to be in good working order for the car to start. It depends on how the car reads the revs. I'm just not sure.
How do I justify the asking price for a car that needs so much? Well, first of all, NADA Guides pegs the average retail value at $8,200, not that you should really go by that number. Second, if you can track down the starting problem, you'll have a car that delivers about 35mpg while driving over mountains. But honestly, the bottom line is I can throw in tons of extras, such as: a low-mile performance engine/tranny with 2.1 manifold (untested by me); extra doors, hood and hatch (all black with recent paint but scratches from storage); spare sets of wheels; lots more. It wears 16" Super Aero wheels and comes with a Carlsson rear bumper (not installed). It's easily worth at least the asking price just in known-good parts (not including the huge number of extra c900/9000 parts I'm willing to throw in). Sell of a bunch of parts and recoup a whole lot of your money. If you don't haggle too hard, I'll throw in a set of Michelins for the Super Aeros that have 80%+ tread left. I can use them on our other car.
Immediate needs:
Ignition cylinder or push-button start
Heater core replaced (I have two for you, removed for repair)
The emergency brakes need some attention. They seem to be stuck.
Rear shocks (brand new Gas-A-Just set included)
Possibly a new brake caliper
Side panels and rear bumper are removed for new paint. AC is present but not hooked up. Needs steering rack (or just boot) and rear shocks (included). Should probably get a new cylinder head soon for several reasons, which I can tell you more about (I have a few spare heads that can go with the car or you can use the one from the performance engine).
The odometer quit working, so mileage is estimated to be around 300,000 or less. There is a significant amount of rust on the front passenger floor. I'd always wondered if this was a major issue, but I received a soft quote for ~$500 plus parts from a resto shop. Other rust is typical or minimal. What looks like rust on the fenders is actually mostly silicone that was used to hold the fender flares on. I can send the Carfax, which shows an accident in NY. New York requires any damage over $1000 to be reported on vehicle history. Otherwise clean title. Passenger side has been repaired and clearcoated. Clearcoat is beginning to chip. There are minor dents here and there. With a $500 parts car and some leg work, it wouldn't take much money to get this SPG in good shape. This is the most dependable car I've had in a long time. I wouldn't sell but I'm just flush with projects and I absolutely need to clear some space - physically and mentally. I'd given myself a mental deadline for finishing this car and it's long since come and gone.
Please, if you're going to text me, make it very clear what you're texting about or else you'll probably receive no reply.
Note: In the photos with the other SPG, mine is the one parked on the right, with the black license plate surround. I no longer have the directional 3-spoke wheels. Seriously, bring a trailer for all the extra parts... or make an offer on the car alone. There's no way to make a long story short on this one... thanks for reading.
This SPG was my daily driver until just a couple weeks ago and it's been an ongoing project of mine for the last 3 yrs. On a recent trip across the Rocky Mountains, I got 34.6 mpg from Grand Junction to Longmont. Now I've run out of time on this project and would like to free the garage space. As much as I believe this car is worth stashing away for the next 5 years, it's time to let someone else take a crack at it.
The transmission was replaced with a good used unit in early 2013 at a cost of $2500, not including the tranny. That's not to say it will last forever... I don't know how many miles were on it when installed. The mechanic gave it a seal of approval and I can say it still gives me no trouble. It doesn't pop out of gear or grind at all.
The interior leather is in pretty good condition. The front seats were refinished a few years ago by the previous owner and are holding up well. The rear seats do have some UV crackling. The center console is removed (I like it better that way). The dash pad has typical cracks, of course. The dash fascia once had an aftermarket wood grain kit on it, which I removed for cleaning. I'm sure I can dig that up for you.
This is a project. The car stopped starting for me the other week and I had it towed home. Right away it seemed it wasn't getting fuel. I've confirmed the fuel pump does work but somewhere in the system, it's not getting turned on. I've replaced the pump relay and I believe the ECM is good. I have a spare distributor to go with the car, just in case it's the Hall sensor. I do not have a spare coil. And no, I haven't checked for spark yet.
Why haven't I checked for spark? The key cylinder fell out several months ago and I'd been starting the car with a screwdriver. After checking the several other systems, I think I can no longer turn on the ignition with my screwdriver (the metal in there is soft and I no longer have enough grip). You'll need to switch out the ignition or convert to push-button start.
Anyway, one of the main symptoms is that the tach needle doesn't jump when cranking the engine. The problem could also be the faulty tachometer, which may or may not need to be in good working order for the car to start. It depends on how the car reads the revs. I'm just not sure.
How do I justify the asking price for a car that needs so much? Well, first of all, NADA Guides pegs the average retail value at $8,200, not that you should really go by that number. Second, if you can track down the starting problem, you'll have a car that delivers about 35mpg while driving over mountains. But honestly, the bottom line is I can throw in tons of extras, such as: a low-mile performance engine/tranny with 2.1 manifold (untested by me); extra doors, hood and hatch (all black with recent paint but scratches from storage); spare sets of wheels; lots more. It wears 16" Super Aero wheels and comes with a Carlsson rear bumper (not installed). It's easily worth at least the asking price just in known-good parts (not including the huge number of extra c900/9000 parts I'm willing to throw in). Sell of a bunch of parts and recoup a whole lot of your money. If you don't haggle too hard, I'll throw in a set of Michelins for the Super Aeros that have 80%+ tread left. I can use them on our other car.
Immediate needs:
Ignition cylinder or push-button start
Heater core replaced (I have two for you, removed for repair)
The emergency brakes need some attention. They seem to be stuck.
Rear shocks (brand new Gas-A-Just set included)
Possibly a new brake caliper
Side panels and rear bumper are removed for new paint. AC is present but not hooked up. Needs steering rack (or just boot) and rear shocks (included). Should probably get a new cylinder head soon for several reasons, which I can tell you more about (I have a few spare heads that can go with the car or you can use the one from the performance engine).
The odometer quit working, so mileage is estimated to be around 300,000 or less. There is a significant amount of rust on the front passenger floor. I'd always wondered if this was a major issue, but I received a soft quote for ~$500 plus parts from a resto shop. Other rust is typical or minimal. What looks like rust on the fenders is actually mostly silicone that was used to hold the fender flares on. I can send the Carfax, which shows an accident in NY. New York requires any damage over $1000 to be reported on vehicle history. Otherwise clean title. Passenger side has been repaired and clearcoated. Clearcoat is beginning to chip. There are minor dents here and there. With a $500 parts car and some leg work, it wouldn't take much money to get this SPG in good shape. This is the most dependable car I've had in a long time. I wouldn't sell but I'm just flush with projects and I absolutely need to clear some space - physically and mentally. I'd given myself a mental deadline for finishing this car and it's long since come and gone.
Please, if you're going to text me, make it very clear what you're texting about or else you'll probably receive no reply.
Note: In the photos with the other SPG, mine is the one parked on the right, with the black license plate surround. I no longer have the directional 3-spoke wheels. Seriously, bring a trailer for all the extra parts... or make an offer on the car alone. There's no way to make a long story short on this one... thanks for reading.